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The southern Nicoya Peninsula is one of Costa Rica's most secluded gems. From the hilly interior the mountains sweep down to the Pacific Ocean, creating some of the most beautiful and solitary beaches of Costa Rica.
Because of poor or nonexistent roads, this tropical paradise has long been off the beaten track for travelers in Costa Rica. But roads and transportation are improving slowly, and tourism is becoming an important part of the economy.
Thankfully, hotels and businesses have still remained small and mostly privately owned, helping to preserve the relaxed and unhurried atmosphere of the peninsula. Travel here is still slow and it is best to resign yourself to a leisurely pace.
As it has always been easier and faster to travel to the southern Nicoya Peninsula by boat from Puntarenas, the region belongs to the province of Puntarenas rather than Guanacaste. Roads connecting to the northern province of Guanacaste are still few and in poor condition.
While Guanacaste is known for its dry climate, the southern part of the Nicoya Peninsula receives more rain annually, making it a transitional zone between dry forest climate and tropical rain forest. The wildlife here is common to both ecosystems and many animals are seasonal commuters.
The region experiences two extremely different seasons: the dry season begins at the end of November and until May the sun drenches the land. Many trees lose their leaves and cars driving on the rutted dirt roads stir up clouds of dust, covering the roadside foliage and houses with a dull, brown layer.
 The first rainfalls to relieve the dry season occur in May, initiating the little summer, a period of rain and showers. Rainfall increases during the following months to becoming very heavy in September to November, when the peninsula turns into a dripping lush rain-forest. Temperatures during the rainy season, called winter here, may sometimes drop to 17ºC (63ºF), while in summer, the dry season, the thermometer may climb up to 38ºC (100.4ºF).
It takes a bit longer to travel to the Southern Nicoya Peninsula than to many other parts of Costa Rica, but it's worth it; you will certainly have some beautiful vacations here.
The Gulf of Nicoya which separates the Nicoya Peninsula from the mainland of Costa Rica is a stunning marine and coastal landscape of wetlands, jagged rocky islands and cliffs, extensive mangrove habitat, and high biodiversity.
A geological fault has once caused the land to submerge, leaving exposed only the tops of what were formerly low hills. These are the numerous islands which today dot the Gulf.
At its upper end, the Gulf is shallow and muddy. The Tempisque River washes much soil and organic material into the estuary, and mangrove swamps thrive on the shores. In Costa Rica mangroves are protected because they play an important role for aquatic life. In their foliage birds are nesting and the mud at their roots shelters mussels, crabs and shrimps.
 The water in the upper Gulf is rich in nutrients, allowing algae to flourish which feeds fish and mollusks. Most of the area's inhabitants depend on food from the sea. From July to August however, nobody is allowed to fish, as this is the breeding time for maritime life.
The lower Gulf of Nicoya is much different from the upper part. There are few mangroves and the area is even less populated. Densely forested hills and promontories touch the sea, closing off secret bays.
 The water here is saltier, clearer and much deeper: between 30 and 180 meters (98 and 590 feet). There are many fish in the lower Gulf but by far fewer shrimp and shellfish.
Currently, only few of Costa Rica's tourists visit this region, an advantage for those who love nature instead of crowds.
Town of Nicoya in Guanacaste
Nicoya is the major town of the peninsula and the cultural center of the province of Guanacaste. It was Costa Rica's first colonial city and boasts of having the oldest church in Costa Rica. The Parroquia San Blas was founded in 1644 and now houses a small museum with ancient religious  artifacts. The citizens of Nicoya cherish their little gem which has recently undergone a complete renovation. In front of the church is the lovely and well tended central park of Nicoya. It is shaded by huge old trees and is a favorite place for meeting and relaxing in the middle of the commercial center.
People from the whole surrounding area, including the beach villages of Samara and Nosara regularly come to Nicoya to deal with their legal and banking needs and do major shopping.
The town also hosts the biggest and best equipped hospital in the Nicoya Peninsula, Hospital La Anexion. Despite its importance, Nicoya is still a small and pleasant town where even in the center few structures are higher than one story.
The name of the town is of indigenous origin. Nicoya was the chief of the Chorotega tribe at the time when the Spanish conquistadors arrived in Costa Rica. The indigenous heritage is still palpable in the traditions and tales of the area.
Nicoya offers a good selection of reasonably priced hotels and serves as a good base for exploring the natural highlights of the area.
Nearby Nature Tours
The nature reserve of Barra Honda with its extensive cave system is only 22 km (13 miles) east of Nicoya. A little bit further north is Puerto Humo at the banks of the Rio Tempisque which is an El Dorado for bird-watchers. From there you can take tours by boat on the vast river and its mangroves to see flocks of waterfowl. Across the Tempisque is the Palo Verde National Park. Local fishers take you by boat the 3 kms (1.8 miles) up river to the park's dock. From the river you walk 2 kms (1.2 miles) to the administration.
South of Nicoya, in the mountains near the village of Hojancha you can make eco-tours through the forest of the Monte Alto Nature Reserve with its huge array of orchids.
Samara, Costa Rica
Samara is a cozy, little beach village, perfect to soak up beach life and sun in an unhurried atmosphere. It is perfectly located on the shore of an idyllic pale sand beach, fringed by coconut palms.
 The shallow waters of the large half moon bay are protected by a coral reef which makes swimming a delight. Low tide produces a vast swathe of sand, providing playground for all kinds of beach games.
Unlike other travel destinations in Costa Rica most businesses and hotels in Samara are run by Ticos. It's a traditional weekend and holiday retreat for Costa Ricans and seems especially popular with travelers from Europe.
Samara's main drag leads directly down to the beach which is shaded by lines of swaying palm trees. What better way to spend the day than dozing lazily in a hammock whilst being soothed by the ocean breeze.
Bars and restaurants featuring sand floors and fancy beach decorations invite for lounging and dining while watching the beach scenery. At night there is a choice of cocktail bars, or if you are still not tired you can dance the rest of the night in the funky discotheque of Samara, located right on the beach.
Activities in Samara
A 2 km (1.2 mile) walk south along the beach brings you to the fishing community of Matapalo. Matapalo means strangler fig in English and indeed there is an immense old strangler fig rooting in the sand. The beach is littered with broken corals as the sea bottom of the southern part of the bay is made up of corals. The shallow waters here are ideal for snorkeling.
The submarine adventure is even more thrilling if you go diving or snorkeling at the offshore coral reef. It is one of the few ones found on the Costa Rican Pacific. Schools of yellow jacks, sardines and manta rays abound here.
Next to the reef is Chora Island which is home to colonies of maritime birds. With an ocean kayak you can paddle to the island and be alone on a gorgeous pink sand beach.
The chest-deep water and easygoing surf in the bay is perfect for beginners learning to surf. More challenging waves for the pros are found 12 km (7.4 miles) south of Samara, on Playa Camaronal.
Other water sports offered in Samara include windsurfing, sport fishing, or kayaking along the coast or into the river estuary of the Rio Ora.
For activities on land you can ride on horseback to the Tobacco waterfalls with its three cataracts and natural swimming pools. Or go on a Canopy Tour in Santo Domingo, three km inland. If this is still not airy enough you can even have a bird’s eye view of the region from an ultra light plane tour.
Getting to Samara
Samara can be reached quite comfortably on the paved road from Nicoya. Daily direct busses connect to San José and there are flights to San José from the small airstrip of Carrillo, 8 km (5 miles) south of Samara.
Cabo Blanco Nature Reserve, Costa Rica
The Cabo Blanco Nature Reserve is at the extreme southern tip of the Nicoya Peninsula.
With its unique combination of climate and geographical location, it ranks as one of the most beautiful nature reserves in Costa Rica.
Cabo Blanco has also a special place in the history of National Parks in Costa Rica, as it was the first protected area in the country.
Nature and Wildlife
The reserve encompasses 1,172 hectares (2,896 acres) of mixed forest, which is classified as moist tropical forest. About 150 trees have been identified. Evergreen species predominate, but dry forest species are found as well. Among the most common trees are lance wood, bastard cedar, wild plum, gumbo-limbo, trumpet tree, dogwood, frangipani and spiny cedar. One of the spiny cedars in the park towers 50 meters (164 feet) and measures 3 meters (9.8 feet) in diameter.
The majority of the reserve is secondary forest some 40 years old. The remaining primary forest accounts for 15% of the land and is located at the highest and most inaccessible point of the reserve.
The forest is home to a large variety of animals. White-tailed deer, pacas, armadillos, anteaters, howler, spider and white-faced monkeys, collared peccary, coyotes, porcupines, raccoons and families of coatis abound. With a keen eye you can find traces of ocelots, jaguarundis or margay cats.
Among the many birds are magpie jay, motmot, long-tailed manakin, cattle egret, crested caracara, elegant trogon, white bellied chachalaca, ringed kingfisher and sulphur-winged parakeet.
An additional 18 hectares (45 acres) of the ocean belongs to the protected area of Cabo Blanco and the abundance of life underwater greatly exceeds that on land.
About 2 km (1.2 miles) from the reserve's southern tip lies the Isla Cabo Blanco. Since the times of the Conquistadors it has been known as the "White Cape", because encrusted guano covers the rocks in dry season. This sea bird sanctuary is inhabited by large numbers of brown pelicans, frigate birds, laughing gulls, common terns and Costa Rica's biggest community of brown boobies.
History of the Cabo Blanco Nature Reserve
In the fifties the government of Costa Rica encouraged settlers to "develop" pieces of land on the isolated southern part of the Nicoya Peninsula. For clearing a piece of land, settlers were rewarded with ownership.
Within a few years most of the dense woodland of the peninsula had been "cultivated".
In the early sixties the Swede Nicolas Wessberg came to Costa Rica with his wife Karen Mogenson. Karen claimed she had a dream in which she saw the vision of a spot like Montezuma and she was certain that they would find their paradise here. They bought a farm near Montezuma and Nicolas Wessberg often went to the virgin forests at Cabo Blanco to collect seeds for their orchard.
When development of this yet unspoiled area began, his concern led him to seek support to preserve the area. He contacted conservationist organizations abroad and was advised about the creation of national parks as they existed in the United States. With the help of many people who contributed to purchase pieces of land at Cabo Blanco and after years of persistent talks with the Costa Rican government, the status of an absolute nature reserve was finally given to Cabo Blanco in 1963. However it took many more years to raise the environmental consciousness of the local people who were used to hunting and clearing the forest for small family farms.
The Cabo Blanco Nature Reserve was the initial step in the development of Costa Rica's extensive national park system which led to the country's successful ecotourism.
Sadly, Nicolas Wessberg was assassinated in 1975, when he helped to create the Corcovado National Park on the Peninsula de Osa.
However, his wife Karen and many like-minded people continued his work. Karen became one of Costa Rica's leading environmentalists and when she died in 1994 she donated most of her money to initiate the creation of another nature reserve.
The Karen Mogenson Nature Reserve is located near Jicaral in the mountains of the Nicoya Peninsula and forms part of the Protected Zone and Biological Corridor of Costa Rica.
Curu Wildlife Reserve, Costa Rica
With as little as 84 hectares (208 acres), the Curu Wildlife Refuge is one of the smallest sanctuaries in Costa Rica. Despite its small size it boasts a rich and diverse wildlife as it encompasses five ecological habitats which range from tropical dry and moist forest to mangrove swamps and marine habitats.
History of Curu
The refuge belongs to a privately owned farm which is carrying out experiments in sustainable agriculture. The farm was established in 1933 by Frederico Schutt and is still family owned. In 1974 part of the hacienda was occupied by squatters who settled around today's village of Valle Azul. As the Schutt family was concerned about the human impact on the nature, they tried to protect the remaining forest and mangroves. In 1981 the status of "Protected Forest" was obtained. Additionally the National Wildlife Refuge was created in 1983.
Wildlife and Ecosystems
Of the 1,496-hectare (3,697acres) property, 75% is protected forest, 5% wildlife refuge and 20% is dedicated to low-impact agriculture and cattle raising. The protected forest of Curu forms part of the Biological Corridor of the Nicoya Peninsula.
 There are still some stretches of primary forest in Curu, but access is restricted to scientists; however the eleven trails available to the public provide ample opportunity to explore different habitats with abundant wildlife. On the detailed map, handed out at the administration, trails are classified from very easy to difficult. Some paths are usable only seasonally.
One of the best trails to spot small mammals and birds is the Sendero Finca de los Monos. Other good trails are Sendero de la Laguna, Sendero Quesera and the road leading to the entrance gate.
232 species of birds have been counted in the refuge, including motmots, white-fronted amazons, laughing hawks, woodpeckers and herons.
Among the mammals are rare species such as ocelots, pumas, margay cats, collared peccari, coyote and anteaters. Even the reintroduction of spider monkeys and scarlet macaws seems to be successful.
On the beach Leatherback, Pacific Riddle and Hawksbill turtles lay their eggs.
Of vital importance to the marine ecosystem is the fascinating habitat of the mangrove swamps. An immense number of small organisms living in the nutrient-rich mud of these swamps build the basis of the marine food chain. Here are the breeding grounds of many Pacific fish, and crowds of water birds feed and nest in the thickets. All five of Costa Rica's mangrove species are represented in Curu.
Visiting Curu
The entrance to the Curu Wildlife Refuge is 6 km (3.7 miles) after Paquera on the road to Tambor. From here you drive 2 km (1.2 miles) through the farm to the administration office at the beach where you get information and a map of the reserve. Strolling around the premises you will already see a lot of wildlife, as the rangers take care of orphaned animals.
You should however restrain from giving food to the monkeys. It spoils their natural behavior and they can become quite insistent. Take care of your bags and lock your car before heading off.
When trekking along the trails, wear long trousers and sleeves to protect yourself against thorns and mosquitos. To discourage insects don't use perfumes or fragrant shampoos. It is better to use a repellent.
If you are fond of bathing, don't forget to bring your swimming suit. The bay of Curu is a picture perfect tropical beach with white coral sand and calm water.
To go for an early trip in the reserve you can stay overnight in rustic cabins near the beach.
Open hours of Curu: every day 7 a.m. - 4 p.m.
Entrance fee: $ 8 per person per day
Accommodation: $ 6 per night for a bed in the cabins
Conservation Projects in Curu
Several research and conservation projects are conducted in Curu. Current projects include the reintroduction of scarlet macaws and spider monkeys which were driven to extinction on the Nicoya Peninsula.
A reef restoration project succeeded in increasing marine life in the bay.
Another project is dedicated to monitor migratory birds and resident landbird species.
Ostional Wildlife Reserve
The beach of Ostional is the scenery for a rarely seen biological wonder. Around the third quarter of the moon, hundreds, and sometimes hundreds of thousand sea turtles come to one specific mile of beach at Ostional to dig their eggs into the black, volcanic sand.
 The Ostional Wildlife Refuge in Costa Rica was created in 1984 to protect one of the world's most important nesting sites of the olive riddle sea turtle.
Only Olive Riddles and their close relatives, Kemp's Sea Turtles, the latter an Atlantic species synchronize their nesting in mass emergence or arribada, the Spanish word for arrivals.
Some days or weeks before the mass nesting, an increasing number of turtles, congregates close offshore.
After some days, prompted by some secret signal, the arribada will begin. At first, a few hundred turtles will come out on the beach, followed by a steady stream of animals for the next three to seven days.
Turtles nest at Ostional year round, but peak time is during rainy season. From August through December arribadas occur regularly once, sometimes even twice a month and the number of nesting females are in the range of hundreds of thousands as opposed to tens of thousands for the dry season months.
The largest arribada thus far recorded in Ostional, took place in November 1995 when a calculated 500,000 females came ashore.
 The turtles generally ride in on the high tide at night but during an arribada they start arriving around 2 p.m. and keep coming until 7 a.m. the next morning.
Waves then churn with scores of turtles which stumble ashore shoulder to shoulder. In a frantic scramble to lay their eggs they bump into one another, clamber over each other's backs and, flicking clouds of sand, dig a nest with their flippers to deposit about 105 white, Ping-Pong shaped eggs. Over the course of a five-day arribada nesting turtles will leave up to 10 million eggs on the beach of Ostional.
Amazingly, Ostional is the only beach in the world where egg poaching is legal. Scientists found out that most of the eggs deposed in the first nights of an arribada are destroyed by subsequent turtles who dig their nests. Therefore, since 1987, the government of Costa Rica allows on an annual, temporary suspension of the international ban on turtle-egg taking that the community of Ostional may harvest the doomed eggs on the first two dawns of an arribada. In return, the community must protect the turtles, clean debris from the beaches and patrol day and night for poachers.
The baby turtles hatch within 45-54 days depending on incubation temperatures, which will also determine if they will become male or female. They face varying degrees of success in each of the clutches that are laid in large groups to increase their success of surviving.
In general the baby turtles hatch at night, but it may also happen that you are sitting in the afternoon on the beach and suddenly, next to you the sand becomes live and small heads pop up.
 As soon as the hatchlings have struggled out of the sand, the race to the ocean begins. With eyes barely opened, the mini turtles smell the breeze and instantly know the right direction.
Women and children from the community of Ostional accompany the hatchlings as they clamber toward the sea, protecting them from dogs and vultures.
If you also want to help the small turtles you shouldn't carry them all the way to the beach as they need the run to develop their lungs. You can carry them a piece of way over the hottest stretch of sand and let them run the rest just trying to provide them some shade and keep the vultures away.
Having reached the ocean, the mini turtles still aren't safe - the next cast of predators awaits them under water. Most hatchlings don't reach maturity, but those who make it will remember the smell of their beach. After 10 - 15 years they will return to their place of birth and again lay their eggs into the black sand of Ostional.
Visiting Ostional
The Ostional Wildlife Reserve extends 15 km (9.3 miles) along the shoreline, including the beaches of Ostional, Nosara and Guiones. It is only a narrow, 200 m (656 feet) wide strand of beach, but extends inland along the estuaries of the rivers and mangrove swamps, protecting large colonies of birds. Offshore the reserve incorporates another 3 miles stretch of maritime zone.
Without the occurrence of an arribada you can walk alone to the beach which is littered with the white shreds of broken turtle eggs.
During the day crowds of black vultures sit in wait for the small turtles or, impatiently with their beaks, pick and scratch in the sand to get to the tasty turtle eggs.
During nesting season (August to November) solitary turtles arrive almost every night at Ostional and sometimes the rare and endangered giant Leatherback turtles and green sea turtles come to nest as well.
During an arribada you must check in with the ranger booth at the southern end of Ostional where you pay the entry fee of $ 6 and another $ 7 for the guide without whom you may not go to the beach. No flashlights or flash photography is permitted.
How to get to Ostional
Ostional is a short drive from Nosara. From the beaches of Nosara, drive 2 kms (1.2 miles) until the turnoff to Santa Marta to the left. From here it is 7 kms (4.3 miles) to Ostional. A bridge leads over the Nosara river but there is no bridge over the Rio Montaña which can be impossible to ford in rainy season. Most hotels in Nosara will arrange tours to Ostional when there is an arribada.
Coming from the north, a road goes to Ostional southwest from Santa Cruz or south from Junquillal via Marbella and San Juanillo. For most of the year this road is in rather good condition, but in September and October a 4x4 is advisable.
From Santa Cruz a bus runs daily at noon time to Ostional (3 hours) and returns to Santa Cruz at 5 a.m.
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